Stocking and method of knitting the same



April 1941- H. E. HOUS EMAN 2237 14 STOCKING AND METHOD OF KNITTING THE SAME Filed Nov. 1, 1939 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 I770 A EYJ.

April 1941- H. E. HOUSEMAN 2,237,144

STOCKING AND METHOD OF KNITTING THE SAME Filed Nov. 1, 1959 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 f 1 F7612. 4 i 84 Y 6/ Q/ s? 86 I a y \Z Z MIVEA/TOR fiz'ra/a fgfazmflzfl A ril 1, 1941. H. E. HOUSEMAN STOCKING AND METHOD OF KNITTING THE SAME Filed Nov. 1, 1939 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Fm: T

Patented Apr. 1, 1941 UNITEDASTATES PATENT OFFICE Harold E. Houseman, Laconia, N. H., asslgnor to- Scott and Williams, Incorporated, Laconia, Y N. 11., a corporation of Massachusetts Application llovember 1, 1939, Serial No. 302,444

39 Claims.

This invention relates to an improved type of stocking and the method and machine for making the same, and has particular reference to a split foot type of stocking, the leg and instep of which incorporate patterning achieved by the reverse concatenation of loops and specifically involving broad ribs. The stocking in its most specific form involves knitting to cause the .foot portion to approach more closely a right angle with the leg portion than in the case of' stockings generally manufactured heretofore, and also involves the provision of right and left toes.

As disclosed in the patents to E. A..Hirner Nos. 1,154,116 and 1,549,307, it is possible by the inclusion of extra fabric at the bottom of the foot portion of a stocking to cause the foot portion as awhole to extend at an angle approaching a right anglewith respect to the leg. This stocking provides a much better fit on the foot of the wearer than most conventional forms of stockings, this being particularly noticeable in the absence of creases over the instep, due, in

ordinary stockings, to the fact that the foot tends to force the foot portion of the stocking more closely toward a right angle with the leg portion than is the case in the stocking before it is put on the foot. Additionally, with a stocking of the Hirner type a pull exerted on the top of a stocking, for example, by a garter, does not tend to tighten a stocking about the toes, but the pull is absorbed by the instep, with resulting greater comfort to the wearer when it is pulled tight. Wear at the toes is also reduced.

In my Patent No. 2,170,078, dated August 22, 1939, there is disclosed a stocking embodying the Hirner type of foot and provided with patterning in the leg and instep specifically taking the form of ribs. The entire stocking was knit as a single unit throughout. 7

It is frequently desirable that stockings should be provided with separate yarn in the sole and instep and also should be provided with reenforcement above the heel in what is known as a high splice. Such stockings are formed in either of twoways, namely, by rotary knitting of the portions above the heel and the sole with change of yarns or by reciprocatory knitting utilizing two feeds. The former of these methods involves so-called rotary knitting, while the latter involves reciprocatory split knitting. In accordance with the present invention, split knitting of either type may be used, reciprocatory split knitting being specifically disclosed herein. The formation of the Hirner type of foot in a split foot construction involves various complications, the solutions of which will be apparent hereafter.

If two feeds are provided for reciprocatory split'knitting, the major portion of the leg of the stocking may be knit two-feed to secure rapidity of production.

To secure a better. fitting stocking, and particularly in view of the closer and better fit which results from the use of the Hirner type of foot, it is desirable to provide for the formation of right and left toes. A satisfactory method of formation of right and left toes is described in thepatent to Howard No. 461,183, dated October '13, 1891. It is one of the objects of the present invention to provide right and left toes of this type in a stocking of the general type mentioned above.

The various aspects of the invention, and particularly desirable features of construction of a stocking and of operation of. a machine will be best understood following consideration of the diagrammatic elevation of one side of a pre-.

ferred form of stocking constructed in accordance with the invention;

Figure 1A is a similar elevation of the other side of the toe thereof;

Figure 2 is a vertical sectional view through the cylinders of a double cylinder type of machine illustrating in fragmentary form the fashion in which transfer of needles is accomplished;

Figure 3 is a diagrammatic view illustrating'in developed form. the inner surfaces of various cams of the machine.

Figure 4 illustrates in elevation the fonn of upper and lower sliders used in the machine;

Figure 5 is a diagram illustrating the arrangement in the machine of various needle controlling sliders carrying knitting andtransfer butts;

Figure 6 is a diagram illustrating the modifications of various cams and control of a lowering picker;

Figure 7 is a view similar to Figure 5, but showing a modifiedarrangement of sliders for the formation of another type of stocking; and

Figure 8 is a view similar to Figure 1 showing an alternative high splice construction obtained by the utilization of the slider arrangement of Figure 7.

Referring first to Figures 1 and 1A, there is illustrated therein a preferred type of stocking formed in accordance with the invention and to which the disclosure of the method and apparatus described herein is made specifically applicable. This stocking comprises a welt 2 which, as pointed out later, comprises a series of courses surmounting a rib top 4' in which a conventional 1 x 1 rib arrangement may be embodied, which rib top in turn surmounts a ribbed leg portion 6 which, as specificallyv illustrated in Figure 1 and as described in connection with the method and machine, is of the well-known English broad rib or 6 x 3 rib type. The plain stitch portions are six wales wide, while the depressed ribs I 0 are three wales wide, the ribs being due, as is usual, to the reverse fashion in which the loops of the contrasting fabric portions are interlinked. The rib top 4 and the leg in the present instance are formed at two feeds with resulting rapidity of production.

While for purposes of illustration a specific rib formation is described, it will be obvious that by variations in the distribution of needles in the upper and lower cylinders and by changes of these distributions during knitting there may .be provided in the stocking numerous design formations such as described, for example, in my Patent No. 2,170,078.

When the point II is reached split reciprocatory knitting occurs with the formation of ribs in both the instep l2 and high splice II as continuations of the ribs in the leg 6. The instep is knit using one of the yarns used in the formation of the leg 8 whereas a'heavier yarn is preferably introduced for the formation of the high splice I3.

After the completion of the ribbed portion of ring toe 32, following which there is formed by reciprocatory knitting the toe.

In stockings formed in accordance with the present invention, right and left toes are provided which are of the type illustrated in the Howard Patent 461,183, referred to above. The stocking shown in Figures 1 and 1A is for the left foot. On the right side of this stocking during reciprocatory knitting there 'is at first no narrowing, the courses extending about the bottom of the toe to the selvage edge at 33 formed on the same needle up to the point 34. From this point narrowing occurs along the line 35, needles being successively removed from action, On the left hand side of the stocking, however, narrowing occurs from the beginning of the formation of the toe along the suture 28. Following the completion of the narrowing operation, widening takes place on both sides until the full set of sole needles has been introduced on the right side of the stocking. Thereafter no further widening on that side occurs, a selvage edge being produced, but widening continues on the left side until the top of the toe is completed. Thus there the high splice, reciprocatory knitting is conthe gores is specifically illustrated in Figure II of Hirner Patent 1,549,307, referred to above, and in my-Patent No, 2,170,078, dated August 22, 1939.

Followingthe narrowed gore 20 are a series of split courses indicated at 22 and corresponding to the courses l4 in that they involve plain knitting except for the rib formation, continuing, at 24, the several ribs knit in the courses I 4 at It. (The lines shown in the drawings extending across the arch are merely to illustrate knitting zones no visible lines are actually present in the stocking.)

Following the formation of the courses 22, the foot is knit by reciprocatory split knitting to form the instep 26 and sole 28 joined at side sutures indicated at 30. The ribs continued at It and 24 are continued through the instep. There is also resumed the formation of the ribs above the suture lines 30 which were interrupted by the widened and narrowed heel extensions l9 and 20 in front of the heel. As contrasted with the high splice region the lower portion of the foot is knit plain, the ribs being confined to the instep. The foot is finished with the usual rotary knit is provided an asymmetrical pocket of the type illustrated in said Howard patent providing an enlarged space at the right side of this stocking. After the completion of the reciprocatory knitting there are formed by rotary knitting the loopers rounds indicated at 38 which are ultimately stitched as indicated at 40. The selvage edges at 33 are also stitched together to provide the finished stocking.

Before discussing the variations of this stocking within the scope of the invention, there will be first described the method of its formation upon the double cylinder type of machine commonly used for the production of the so-called English broad rib. This machine is of the wellknown Bentley type as illustrated, for example, in Spiers Patent 1,210,866, Bentley Patents 1,713,736 and 2,045,938, and Deans Patent 2,101,494. In order to better indicate how the improved stocking is formed, so much of the Bentley machine is illustrated herein in diagrammatic fashion as to show the essential changes in the conventional machine required for carrying out the improved method to produce the stocking illustrated in Figures 1 and 1A.

Referring first to Figure 2, there are illustrated therein the lower cylinder 42 and upper cylinder 44 of a Bentley machine. These cylinders, which are driven in unison during both rotation and reciprocation, are provided with aligned slots in their exterior surfaces within which are adapted to slide double ended needles indicated at 46 having upper and lower hooks 48 and 50, respectively with cooperating latches. Usually such machines have two knitting feeds, with five fingers at the main feed and two at the second feed. One of the fingers at the second feed carries a draw thread and the other a main yarn which knits alternate courses of the leg and foot. Also slidable within the slots, but remaining in their respective cylinders are upper sliders 52 and lower sliders 54, which are held in position by spring'bands, not illustrated. The upper sliders 52 carry transfer butts indicated at 56, auxiliary transfer butts indicated at ST and knitting butts indicated at 58, while the lower sliders carry .transfer butts indicated at 60, auxiliary transfer butts indicated at BI and knitting butts indicated at 32. The transfer butts are for the purpose of providing transfer of the needles from one cylinder to the other, while the knitting butts are designed to cause the needles connected to the assures sliders to move through their proper knitting waves.

Sinkers of conventional type indicated at 64 serve to cooperate with the needles in the usual fashion for the formation of stitches.

In order to control the sliders for the proper transfer of the needles there is provided at the height of the separation between the cylinders a separating cam 66 which has the form indicated in my Patent No. 2,170,078, in which patent there are described in detail the construction and operation of this cam in eifecting transfer. The transfer operations, with slight changes described herein, are essentially the same as described in my said patent.

In Figure 3 there is illustrated in interior development the arrangement of cams for controlling the sliders in the upper and lower cylinders. Besides the cams which are illustrated in Figure 3 there are provided the usual latch guarding cams and other conventional cams and devices which have only their conventional functions in the present machine. The sinker cams are also conventional and need not be specifically described.

Adapted to cooperate with the lower sliders there are the main feed center cam 68 adapted to engage short knitting butts and the main feed stitch cams "and I2. Above these are respectively located the raising pickers l4 and 16 of conventional type adapted to raise both long and short butt sliders during reciprocatory knitting.

At the auxiliary feed there is located a center cam I8 and stitch cams 80 and 82. The center cam I8-is radially movable and adapted to occupy three positions in one of which it is out of action, in the second of which it is adapted to engage long and intermediate length knitting butts of the lower sliders, missing short butts, and in the third of which it is adapted to engage knitting butts of all three lengths.

A main lower transfer cam is illustrated at 84, this transfer cam being similar to the lower transfer cam described in my said patent. Likewise, a conventional upper main transfer cam 86 is provided. Auxiliary transfer cams 86 and 81 are additionally provided in the present case to operate on the auxiliary transfer butts 6| and 61 for the purpose of securing quick transfer during reciprocation. Cam surfaces 68 and 88 serve to restore the sliders to proper positions after a transfer action takes place either through the main or auxiliary transfer cams. It will be noted that the cams 85 and 81 are slightly beyond the position of the cams 84 and 86 and the cam surface of cam 90, with the result that a double transfer may be effected as described hereafter.

A long butt slider raising cam is provided at 32, This cam is radially movable to position it so as to effect no operation on long butt sliders or to raise long butt sliders to an inoperative height so that they will not be engaged by the knitting cams at the main feed. A long butt slider lowering cam feed. The lowering picker I04 is providedjust beyond the auxiliary feed. It must be capable of picking down long as well as short butts.

At I06 there is illustrated the radiallymovable long butt raising cam operating similarly to cam 82 in reverse movements of the cylinders. This cam is adapted to engage long butts only-when the cam is in its inner position. it serves as a guard cam for cam I06.

The upper set of cams comprises an upper center main feed cam I08 followed by the forward stitch cam H0 and cams H2 and H4 adapted to clear the stitches. At the auxiliary feed there is the center cam II6, which is radially movable to occupy a position in which it engages no upper slider knitting butts, a position in which it engages long butts only, or in a position in which it engages both long-and short butts. This is followed by the forward auxiliary upper stitch cam II 8 which in turn is followed by cams I20 and I22 to cause the stitches to clear the latches. At I24 there is provided a radially movable slider elevating cam which in its outer position will fail to engage any butts and in its inner position will engage all knitting butts of the upper sliders. Immediately following this is a second movable cam I26 which. has a lower recessed portion adapted to engage long butts only when the camis in its active position. When withdrawn, it fails to engage any butts. Cooperating with the sliders in. their reverse movements are the reverse auxiliary stitch cam I28, the latch clearing cam I30 cooperating with II4, the slider raising cam I32 corresponding to cam I24 and the recessed long butt lowering cam I34 corresponding to I26. This cam I84, however, is not radially movable, but occupies a fixed position in which it serves to lower long .butt sliders only. A reverse stitch cam I86 is provided at the main feed and clearing of the latches by stitches is effected by cams I38 and I40.

94, which is movable radially, is provided for Of the various cams described above. cams 84, 85, 86 and are controlled in conventional fashion from the usual pattern drum cams or, if more elaborate patterns are being produced, from conventional chains. Of the lower series of cams. cams 64, I06 and I8 are radially movable as described, and 'as will become clear hereafter. The movements of these cams are controlled from the conventional cam drum in the usual fashion. Of the upper cams, cams II6, I24, I26 and I32 have already been described as radially movable. In addition, cams I20, I30, H2 and I38 are radially movable between outer positions in which they may engage butts of either length. These various radially movable cams are controlled in quite conventional fashion from the main cam drum of the machine through links and levers which need not be described. The axial sliding movements of cam 82 are controlled in the same fashion.

In view of the split knitting occurring in the leg, it is essential that the stitches at the various feeds be carefully balanced. For this reason all of the stitch cams I0, 12, 80, 82, H0, I36, H8 and I28 are made axially adjustable to secure fine control of the stitches. Their radial positions, however, remain constantly the same so that they may engage knitting butts of all lengths.

To secure the proper control of needles for the formation of the vstocking described herein, the upper and lower sliders have butts provided as indicated in Figure 5. The needles may be considered as divided into two series, a long butt series to form the instep, and a short butt series Cam I01 below the stocking.

ment of the sliders.

to form the sole of the stocking. The needles themselves are not provided with the long and short butts, but rather the sliders associated with them. Preferably, and as indicated specifically herein, equal numbers of needles are provided in the two groups on opposite sides of the center line I42. For illustrative purposes, there may be considered to be two hundred needles provided, one hundred in the instep series and one hundred in the sole series, as indicated at the top and bottom of the diagram in Figure 5.

Referring first to the knitting butts 66 of the lower sliders, all of the instep sliders are provided with'long butts I44. Except for the end sliders of the sole series, all of these are provided with short butts I46. The two end sliders, however, are provided with intermediate length butts I46 which as will be evident hereafter, provide for the formation of sutures in the split knitting.

The upper sliders of the instep series are provided with long butts I60, while the upper sliders of the sole series are provided with short butts I62.

The upper sliders are either provided with no main transfer butts, as indicated at I64, with long main transfer butts, indicated at I66, short main transfer butts I66, or intermediate length transfer butts I60. The arrangementsoi' these butts will be apparent from Figure 5, in which it will be noted that long and short transfer butts occur in the instep series and long and intermediate transfer butts in the sole series. Both the short and intermediate transfer butts occur on groups of three sliders separated by groups of six sliders. As will appear hereafter, these short and intermediate butts are found on those sliders which knit the ribs in the leg portion of Because of the knitting of 1 x 1 rib, every alternate upperslider must have a main transfer butt. If a short or intermediate transfer butt does not occur thereon, then a long transfer butt is provided.

The lower sliders corresponding to upper sliders which 'do not carry transfer butts are also lacking in transfer butts, as indicated at I62. Every alternate lower slider carries a long main transfer butt I64. Lower sliders which do not carry the butts I64, but which correspond in position to the broad rib sliders of the upper series carry short transfer butts I66. In Figure 5 the groupings of needles and sliders forming rib and plain stitches in the formation of the leg are so indicated.

The auxiliary transfer butts 61 occur in two lengths, as indicated at I61 and I66. The short butts I61 occur on all the sliders having intermediate length transfer butts I60, and, in the present instance, perform the normal functions of the butts I60, which, in the formation of the stocking of Figures 1 and 1A, are functionless but have been described to clarify the arranges The longer butts I66 occur only on the two groups of leg rib forming sliders of the instep series-on each side of the stocking. The auxiliary transfer butts 6I are provided as indicated at I10 on the corresponding four groups of lower sliders. The various auxiliary transfer butts control the interruption and resumption of the rib formation in the instep portion of the stocking occasioned by the presence of the Hirner heel extension.

The invention will be best understood from specific consideration of these butt set-ups. It will be evident, however, that variations in the product will require obvious changes therein.

For the production of right and left toes special control of lowering picker I04 is necessary. The devices for accomplishing this are specifically described in my said copendlng applica- 5 tion. Serial No. 302,443 referred to above. For

the purpose of the present case, it wfll be sufilcient to state that the lowering picker I64 is arranged to be selectively controlled so as to be operative to engage raised needles either during 10 reciprocatory movement in both directions, or during reciprocatory movements in one direction only. To form right and left stockings in succession, control is provided so that in the formation of successive stockings the direction of movement in which the lowering picker is operative is alternated. The operation of the machine to form a stocking may be best appreciated from consideration of Figure 6 in conjunction with the following description. In this figure there are illustrated diagrammatically the movements of the various controlling cams, etc., to produce the various needle actions incident to the production of the stocking of Figures 1 and 1A. 7

In considering the operation of the machine, it is most convenient to begin with the formation of the loopers rounds finishing one stocking before proceeding to the next. In the formation of these rounds, the machine is knitting g single feed with all of the needles controlled by sliders in the lower cylinder. The auxiliary lower center cam 16 is withdrawn, as indicated in Figure 6, in which figure the positions of all the other cams are also shown. Accordingly, during 5 the formation of the loopers rounds, the knitting butts of the lower sliders controlling movements of all the needles pass down cams 66 and 16 to draw stitches and then up cam 66 passing, without engaging, the center cam 16', and then passing 40 over the reverse stitch cam 12 for subsequent engagement with center cam 66. Plain knitting is thus effected. The knitting butts of the upper sliders move at a low level missing withdrawn cams I24, I62 and H6.

The stockings are formed on this machine in a continuous series, there being provided a draw thread joining the loopers rounds of one stocking with the welt of a succeeding stocking. The knitting and nature of this draw thread arrangement are described in Bentley Patent 2,045,938,

and its formation will be briefly described herein' merely to show the cam changes of the machine. The knitting of the draw thread is essentially the same as described in said Bentley et 8.1. 168681.

At the end of the formation of the loopers rounds, the transfer cam 64 is moved in to engage only the long transfer butts on the lower sliders. Cam 64 may be moved out at this time. The draw thread is introduced at the auxiliary feed, and the yarn for knitting the welt is introduced at the main feed. Center cam 16 and cams I24 and I62 are moved in and cams II2, I and I66 are moved out. Cam I20, which has heretofore been in its inner position. though it was not engaging knitting butts, remains in, lowering the upper sliders sumciently to cause them to receive the transferred needles from the lower cylinder.

The knitting butts of the upper sliders now move up cams I06 and H0, past cams H2 and I60 without engaging these cams and are then depressed by cams I20 and I22 sufllciently to locate them in position to receive the needles which are being transferred. They are then slightly raised by cam I24 to position to be reengaged by cam I08. They are thus caused to move their needles;

tion locating alternate needles in the upper cylinder. Cam 84 then lowers the raised sliders to active level so that they move with the sliders which still control needles. The knitting butts of the lower sliders are depressed by centercam 68 and stitch cam I0, thence rise over cam 98 to be depressed by cams I8 and 80 at the auxiliary feed. The knitting butts then pass up cams I and I 02 and over the reverse stitch cam I2.

By reason of the above the needles in the lower cylinder take yarn at the main feed and also take the draw thread at the auxiliary feed. The needles in the upper cylinder take yarn only at the main feed, thus producing the draw thread stitches described in the Bentleyet al. patent. This draw thread is knit only for approximately one and one-half courses so that it may be readily pulled out to separate the stockings. The welt is then formed by removal of the draw thread and by withdrawal of cams I8 and I20. The result of this is that the needles in the lower cylinder knit single feed taking yarn at the main feed only. They pass through the same wave as in the formation of the loopers rounds, but the yarn is, of course, taken only by alternate needles. The upper sliders move through the central race, missing all cams I20, I 38, H2 and I30, their needles holding the loops from theirllast course of knitting. By the subsequent reengagement of these loops, the conventional welt 2 is formed.

After the formation. of, say, four courses, of the welt, the formation of the l x 1 rib top 4 is begun with two feed knitting in both the upper and lower cylinders, changes being made to yarns at both feeds suitable for the knitting of the top. To effect this action, cams I8, H2, H6, and I20 are moved into action.

The knitting butts of the lower sliders then move down cams 68 and I0, up cams 98 and 82, down I8 and 80 and up I00, I02, and I2. The knitting butts of the upper sliders move up cams I08 and H0, down cams H2 and H4, up H6 and H8, and down I20 and I22, and are then raised by cam I24 to a position to be re'engaged by cam I08. I

Following the formation of the rib top, the

ribbed leg 6 is knit, the set-up in the present case.

being suitable to form the usual 6 x 3 rib arrangement. In passing to the formation of the leg, except for yarn changes if yarn changes are desired, there is no variation in the knitting waves, there being merely transfers of needles to secure the desired arrangements in the upper and lower cylinders. Two feed knitting 'continues for the rapid formation of the leg. To

effect the shift of needles both the lower and upper transfer cams 84 and 85, respectively, are moved inwardly, the former to engage all of the lower transfer butts only. As a result of this, all of the butt-carrying sliders in the lower cylinder are moved upwardly to needle transferring position. However, since the needles corresponding to the long butt lower sliders are already in the upper cylinder, the transfer effects shift only of the needles engaged by the short butt sliders. Immediately there are transferred to the lower cylinder all of the needles engaged by upper sliders having long transfer butts. As will be evident from consideration of Figure 5, this wfll result in having in the lower cylinder groups of six needles with intermediate groups of three needles, each, in the upper cylinder. The continued knitting, therefore, will result in the production of the 6 x 3 rib leg 6 which is illustrated. At this point it may be noted, as pointed out above, that 'by more elaborate control of the transfer, particularly when a plurality of yarns are being fed to the needles to produce plating,

there can be produced quite elaborate designs. It will be understood, therefore, that the reference to 6 x 3 rib at this point and in connection with the further discussions of the rib areas is only for the purpose of illustration and that there is possible great liberty of variation in the production of structural and design modifications. A links and links" type of pattern may be produced, using, in conventional fashion, Jacks above the upper sliders for controlling their movements under the action of special pattern means.

is changed to reciprocatory motion and a heavier m long and medium butts only.

yarn is introduced at the main feed to be knit into the high splice at the rear of the stocking, the leg yarn being retained at the auxiliary feed to knit the instep. It may be noted that the sliders having intermediate length butts I48 control needles in the lower cylinder knitting plain fabric. Consequently the matter of formation of the suture is taken care of by the cams controlling the lower sliders.

At this point, cam I8 is moved out to engage Cam H6 is moved out to engage long butts, only. Cam I26 is moved in so that its set back portion will engage long butts. 82 is moved up to raise long butts.

The instep needles now knit at the auxiliary feed and the sole needles at the main feed. In

their forward movements the long butt lower move down cams I8 and 82 and up cam IM to beengaged by the cam I06 which carries them to a level above cams 68 and 86.

The short butt lower sliders miss cam 82 on their forward movement and passing over cam I2 run down cams 68 and I0 to be raised by cam 98. They then pass cam I8 without engaging it. On their reverse movement they miss cam I06 and after rising slightly over cam I0 pass down earns 68 and I2 to draw stitches, being thereafter raised by cams 88 and I03.

The intermediate butt suture needles provide the suture between the split portions of the fabric by taking yarn at both feeds. The interme diate butt slider which leads the short butt sole series in its forward movement starts from the position indicated at A in Figure 3. It is not raised with the long butt series preceding it by .the cam 92 and accordingly engages picker I6 Cams I and I38 move in. Cam v riving at the position indicated at B. On its reverse movement it engages cani l being depressed by this cam and cam 02 and is. then raised by cam IOI. Passing cam I00, which engages long butt sliders only, it passes beneath the picker I4 which is now riding on the preceding short butts of the short butt sliders. It will accordingly now pass with the short butt sliders through a knitting wave at the main feed, finally arriving at the position A. Thus during a complete reciprocation the corresponding suture needle will knit yarn twice at the auxiliary feed and once at the main feed.

The other. suture needle slider leading the long butt series starts from the position indicated at A in its forward movement, 'and'missing cam I00, is depressed by cams I0 and 00 and raised by cams I00 and I02, then, missing cam 02, it rises over stitch cam 12 and is depressed by cams 00 and and raised by cam ing cam I00 and will be raised thereby above the level of cams 00 and 00 to engage cam 1.0 which, together with cam 02, lowers it. It then rises over cam IM to reach its final position A. Thu-s the suture needle associated with this slider also knits yarns twice at the auxiliary feed and once at the main feed during each reciprocation.

The upper long butt sliders associated with instep needles, starting from a position approximately above A, will rise over cam- I32 and will then move slightly downwardly under the action of cam II4 to engage cam IIO. By this cam and cam I I 0 they will be raised to take yarn at the auxiliary feed, and will then move downwardly under cams I20 and I22 to be raised slightly by cam I24, and then moved downwardly by the set-back portion of cam I20. On their reverse movement the leading long butt needle will start from a position above B and the long butt sliders will engage the center cam IIO to be caused to pass through a knitting wave at the auxiliary feed, being then caused to miss center cam I 00 by the actions of 'canm I32 and I34.

The short butt upper sliders in a forward movement start from the position A and are caused to move upwardly by cam I 24. The short butts. however, miss the recessed portion of cam I20 and so engage center cam I00 by which together with cam IIO, they are caused to have stitch auxiliary center cam I I0. On their reverse movements they start from the position 3' and are raised by cam I32 to engage cam I00 after missing cam I04. Accordingly, they again take yarn at the main feed, after which they are depressed by cams I and I40 and miss cam H0.

It will be noted that the cylinders have a range of reciprocation in .excess of so as to bring all of the needles of each series to proper final position to take yarns during the split knitting. This excess range of movement is also necessary for the formation .of the Hirner type of heel as described hereafter. p

After finishing the ribbed portion of the high splice and before starting the formation of the heel, it is desirable to knit one or more split courses to eliminate the ribs from the portions of the stocking knit by the needles taking part in the heel formation. These courses are indicated at I4. No change is now necessary in the cams which engage the knitting butts 01' the sliders. Needles, however, are transferred from the upper to the lower cylinder as follows:

Usually on a machine of this ype about t revolutions of thecylinders are used for stepping the transfer came in and out, whereas'in the present instance a quick selective transfer is required during the redprocatory knitting. Accordingly there is provided the auxiliary transfer cam 01 adapted to occupy three alternative positions; As the short butt series of sliders start moving counterclockwise from the position A, the cam 01 is moved .to its innermost position'so that it will lower the sliders carrying butts I0I, the

sliders carrying butts I00 being already to the left of-cam 01 as viewed in Figure 3. Following lowerlngof the sliders of the short butt series there are also lowered the two trailing sets of long butt sliders carrying butts I00. Then the cam 01 is partially withdrawn so as to miss butts I 01 but engage during the latter part of this forward stroke the sliders carrying butts I00 leading the short butt sliders and being located at the end of the stroke to the left of position B. At the end of this stroke, cam '01 is fully retracted. Thus short butt sliders do not start through the transfer a second time, and cam ll does not engage any butts in the next reverse stroke. As a result of these operations. there will remain in the upper cylinder only the needles which form the ribs in the front of the extreme forward limits of the heel structure which is to be formed. a

. Following the formation of the courses I4, the

narrowing for the formation of the heel portion I1 is begun. The heel yarn is introduced at the main feed and earns I8, IIO, I24, and I32 now move out of action. Accordingly, all the upper sliders will passby cam IIO without being raised thereby to cause their needles to take yarn. The short butt upper sliders nolonger control any needles and pass idly below the cams. The long butt lower sliders will pass cam 10 and will remain at an idle level. The short butt lower sliders will pass cam I0 and will remain at an idle level. The short butt sliders, on the other hand, continue to knit at the main feed and the pickers I4 and I0 operate in the usual fashion to produce narrowing.

Upon the completion of the narrowing operation, cam 02 is moved down and cam I00 moved out, while the lowering picker I04 is rendered active by a cam acting upon lever I04, which action causes it to move down to the level at which the inactive butts are moving. The widening action now takes place in conventional'fashion, two needles being picked down and one picked up at each end of the short butt series upon each reciprocation. To form the Hirner type of heel the widening does not cease when all of the short butt needles have been brought into action, but the widening is continued without any further change in the cam setup, bringing down suilicient long butt sliders to form the widened gore I9. When this has been completed, the lowering picker is again rendered inactive, whereupon the nar- I butts only).

sented. If the Hirner sores are not incorporated in the stocking, then floating the instep yarn under take-up control in the conventional fashion is a satisfactory procedure. However, if long butt needles are picked down to form the special gore in front of the heel, it is preferable to clamp and cut the instep yarn as stated, reinser-ting it when split knitting is resumed after completion of the gores. The sutures will be interrupted by the sores and will not extend without a break .along the corners of the heel sutures. Consequently there will not be a tendency to the formation of an open stitch at the heel corners providing weak points in the stockings.

When the narrowing is completed, there are preferably formed one or more courses, as indicated at 22, as a preliminary step to the formation of the ribs throughout the entire instep. To form these courses, 22, there are moved into action cams 82, I06, I8 (to engage long and intermediate butts only) and cam I I8 (to engage long Reciprocatory knitting then takes place in the same fashion as in the formation of courses I4, plain knitting occurring throughout the sole and also in the instep in the region immediately in front of the Hirner gore.

Following the formation of the courses 22 the only action necessary to continue knitting is the transfer of the two sets of rib needles on each side adjacent the suture line to the upper cylinder by the action of cam 86 on the special butts I'll of the corresponding sliders. The movements of the sliders in the formation of the split foot are essentially the same as in the formation of the high splice with the exception that since no ribs are being formed in the sole the short butt series of sliders in the upper cylinder move idly at a low level, cams I24 and I32 remaining out of action. The sutures between the instep and sole portions are formed as described above. If a sole yarn diflerent from the heel yarn is desired, a yarn change takes place at the main feed.

Following the formation of the foot, the ring toe may be produced, preferably in two steps by rotary knitting single feed. First cams I8, 92, [I6 and I26 are moved out of action and cams 94 and I24 are moved into action. The result of this will be cessation of knitting at the auxiliary feed with knitting by'yarn at the main feed by needles under the control of both upper and lower sliders. This knitting, which may proceed for one or more courses, will involve the formation of ribs at the instep. Immediately, however, cam 85 is moved in to engage the shortest transfer butts of the upper sliders.

Thereafter, plain fabric is knit at the main feed by needles controlled by the lower sliders only. If desired a new yarn may be introduced at the main feed for the formation of this ring toe.

Following the-formation of the ring toe, reciprocatory knitting is again resumed for the formation of the special right or left toe. The cam changes involve the reinsertion of cam I26, the removal of cam I24, the raising of cam 92 to its upper position to engage and raise long butt sliders to an inoperative level, and the removal of cam 94. The upper sliders will then move below all of the upper cams. Control of the lowering picker I04 is now effected by the devices described in my copending application Serial No. 302,443, so that it will be operative when reciprocation in one direction takes place. In the direction of reciprocation in which it is inoperative the suture slider leading the short butt series will be raised by a raising picker to the level of the long butt sliders and with these sliders will fail to cause its needle to take yarn at the main feed. Upon reciprocation in the reverse direction, the lowering picker will be operative to engage the first two sliders of the raised series which will be the suture slider leading the long butt series and the adjacent first long butt slider. Both of these will be brought down to trail the end of the short butt sliders. However, before reaching the center cam 68, the long butt slider thus brought down will be raised by either cam- I06 or cam 92, depending upon the direction of movement. The result will be that the suture needle will take yarn at the main feed with the needles of the short butt series. This action will be repeated at the unfashioned side, the suture needle under discussion being raised in one reciprocation and lowered in the next. Thus no narrowing at its side of the short butt series will take place. At the same time, however, narrowing in the usual fashion takes place on the other side of the short butt series, a needle being raised in each reciprocation.

After a sumcient length of straight selvage has been produced along the line 33 reaching the point 34, the lowering picker is rendered inoperative, and consequently narrowing at both sides takes place along the line 35.

Following completion of the narrowing operation, the lowering picker is rendered operative on both sides. Widening will now take place in the usual fashion, there being two needles lowered and one raised at each reciprocation. 0n the side on which narrowing did not take place during the first part of the toe formation, the lowering picker after the point 34 is again reached is unable to produce any further widening, since while it will.lower two needles at each action, one of these will be a suture needle and the other an end needle of the long butt series. The latter is raised immediately after being lowered by the action of either cam 92 or I06, while in the next reciprocation the suture needle is raised by a raising picker, since it leads the short butt series. The resultis that another straight selvage is produced at 33. ,Wid-

ening at the other side continues in the usual fashion.

At the end of the widening operation, cam

94 is moved in and cam 92 down and rotaryknitting is resumed to form the loopers rounds heretofore described. The stocking after separation by removal of the draw thread is stitched at 33 and 38.

As a matter of styling, it may be desirable to have instead of the ribbed high splice I3 8. plain high splice portion above the heelwith the ribs continued through the instep. Such a modiligation is fragmentarily illustrated in Figure 8, which shows only the heel portion of a stocking which, except for the construction at this heel portion, may be identical with the stocking of Figure 1. The leg 8 is similar to the leg 8. Prior to the beginning of the plain high splice the ribs at the rear of the stocking are cut out for one or more courses of rotary knitting at two feeds, as indicated at 9'. The position II for beginning the high splice is then reached and split knitting is begun forming the plain high splice I3 while continuing the ribbed instep as at I2. Following this there may be formed the courses indicated at I4 corresponding to I4 and thereafter the heel I1 is begun. Assuming the cam arrangement as described above for the formation of the 6 x 3 rib leg,

. rial.

the formation of the stocking of this modification may be described as follows with reference to the butt diagram of Figure 7 showing the slight modifications required as compared with Figure 5.

It will be noted that butts IlBI-are no longer required and-only one length of auxiliary butts .is necessary on the upper sliders, these occurring at I" on the two groups of broad rib sliders on each side in the instep series.

The courses 9' are knit by rotary knitting with transfer of all the needles of the sole series .from

,the upper to the lower cylinder by moving cam 85 inwardly to engage the intermediate length butts I60. Thus two feed knitting proceeds with plain knitting at the rear of the stocking and broad rib knitting continued at the front thereof.

After a few courses of such knitting, the rotary movement of the needle cylinders is changed to a reciprocatory motion and the cams are changed to substantially the conditions described above used in the formation of the split foot of the stocking of Figure 1. Cam I8 is moved out so that it will engage-long and intermediate butts only. Cam I I6 is moved out to engage long butts only. Cams I24 and I32 are moved out to avoid putting waves in the upper sliders and to prevent passage of the short butt upper sliders (which now control no needles) through a knitting wave at the main feed. Since cam I is moved out the position of cam I26 is immate- Cam I30 is moved in to clear stitches in reverse movements at the auxiliary feed. Cam I38 is inactive throughout the formation of this stocking, but if it is controlled to move in with cam I, such movement does no harm. Cam 92 is moved in to raise long butt sliders over the cams at the main feed. Cam I06 is already in position to perform this same function, 'during reverse movements.

As a result of the above set-up, knitting of the ankle will take place in substantially the same fashion as the knitting of the foot of the modification of Figure 1, a plain high splice I3 being produced.

Following the formation of the high splice, courses I4 may be formed in the same fashion as the courses ll, transfer cam 81 being moved in to lower the two groups of rib forming needles of the instep series on both sides of the stocking. From this point on, the formation of the stocking is the same as in the modification of Figure 1.

In the formation of a high splice such as I3, it will generally be desirable to use a yarn of the same color as that used for forming the leg, but perhaps heavier. If a reenforced high splice is not desired, however, a'true high splice need not be made at this point, but instead knitting as in the courses 9' may be continued to the formation of the courses at I4 immediately preceding the heel.

One of the most evident modifications of the product and method will be the formation of more elaborate designs than those secured by the mere formation of ribs running through the leg and instep. The 6 x 3 rib construction has been involve passage through previously formed loops of other loops in selective opposite directions. Such patterns are, of course, produced by morev The stockings described above are of quite elaborate character, and it will be understood that the principles of the invention are applicable .to the formation of stockings of simpler type.

For example, the Hirner gores may be omitted and/or conventional toes may be provided instead of the right and left toes described heretofore. Other forms of Hirner gores may alsov be readily incorporated, for example, the alternative type illustrated in Figure 6 of my Patent No. 2,170,078. From the description of the cam actions above it will be evident how such a modifled gore may be produced by slight variation in the handling of the needles.

What I claim and desire to protect by Letters Patent is:

1. A knitted stocking comprising integrally knittedleg, heel and foot portions with a split portion above the heel formed by reciprocatory knitting, the leg portion of said stocking being formed by rotary knitting and being provided with design structure comprising selectively reversely concatenated loops, and the foot portion of said stocking being fornied by reciprocatory knitting and having different yarns forming the upper and lower portions thereof, both parts of said split portion being provided with design structure similar to and continuing that of the leg, and the'upper' portion of the foot containing design structure similar to and continuing that of the front part of said split portion.

2. A knitted stocking comprising integrally knittedleg, heel, foot and toe portions and being provided with ribs of multiple wale width in the leg portion, the ribs in the front of the legportion extending without interruption substantially to the toe, and the'ribs in the rear of the leg portion extending without interruption substantially to the heel, the front and rear sets of ribs each being made by both rotary and reciprocatory knitting.

3. A knitted stocking comprising integrally knitted leg, heel and foot portions with a gore formed by reciprocatory knitting located between the heel and foot portions and extending above the heel portion, the lower portion of said leg comprising a section knit by reciprocatory knitting the rear of which isknit of one yarn and the front of which is knit of another yarn, the

rear and front being Joined by side sutures, and

the foot portion being formed by reciprocatory knitting, the sole being knit of one yarn and the instep of another, the sole and instep being joined by side sutures, the continuity of the sutures on each side being interrupted by said gore.

4. A knitted stocking comprising integrally knitted leg. heel and foot portions with a gore formed by reciprocatory knitting, located between the heel and foot portions and extending above the heel portion, the lower portion of said leg comprising a section knit by reciprocatory knitting the rear of which is knit of one yarn and the front of which is knit of another yarn, the rear. and front being joined by side sutures, and the'foot portion being formed by reciptQ atory knitting, the sole being knit of one yarn and the instep of another, the sole and instep being joined by side sutures, the continuity of the sutures on each side being interruptedby said gore, the front of the leg and the instep having-longitudinally extending ribs some of which are interrupted by said gore.

5. A .knitted stocking comprising a leg, an ankle portion, a heel, a gore below the heel, and

a foot below the gore, said ankle and foot portion each being made of two split sections of fabric united at a certain walepn one side of the stocking and at a certain wale on the other side thereof, the heel portion being formed by narrowing "portion by concatenating loops during recipro-' catory knitting with those with which yarn was not interknit during the formation of the heel. I 10. The method of knitting a stocking 'comprising knitting a leg portion whileselectively reversely concatenating loops to produce a design structure, forming a heel portion by reciprocatory knitting, forming a gore extending above the heel portion in front of the heel portion by reciprocatory knitting, during the knitting of the heel and gore failing to interknit yarn with loops at the front of the stocking formed during the last course of knitting preceding formation of the heel, and. following the completion of said from said wales and then widening to said wales,

and the gore portion being formed by widening from said wales and then narrowing to said wales- 6. A knitted stocking comprising a leg, an ankle portion, a heel, a gore below the heel, and a foot below the gore, said ankle and foot portion each being made. of two split sections of fabric united at a certain wale on one side of the stocking and at a certain wale on the other side thereof, the heel portion being formed by narrowing from said wales and then widening to said wales, and the gore portion being formed by widening from said wales and then narrowing to said wales, said ankle portion, heel, gore and foot being formed by reciprocatory knitting.

7. The method of knitting a stocking comprising knitting a leg portion while selectively reversely concatenating loops to produce a multiple wale rib structure, forming at the end of the formation of the leg portion at least one course containing plain knitting through at least the extent of the heel, forming a heel portion by reciprocatory knitting, during the knitting of the heel failing to interknit yarn with loops at the front of the stocking formed during the last course of knitting preceding formation of the heel, and, following the completion of said heel, starting formation of a foot portion by concatenating loops during reciprocatory knitting with those with which yarn was not interknit during the formation of the heel.

8. The method of knitting a stocking comprising knitting a leg portion while selectively reversely concatenating loops to produce a multiple wale rib structure, forming a heel portion by reciprocatory knitting, during the knitting of the heel failing to interknit yarn with loops at the front of the stocking formed during the last course of knitting preceding formation of the heel, and, following the completion of said heel, starting formation of a foot portion by concatenating loops during reciprocatory knitting with thosewith which yarn was not interknit during the formation of the heel.

9. The method o knitting a stocking comprising knitting an upper leg portion by rotary 'a heel portion by reciprocatory knitting, during the knitting of the heel failing to interknit yarn with loops at the front of the stocking formed during the last course of split knitting preceding formation of the heel, and, following the completion of said heel, starting formation of a foot gore, starting formation of a foot portion by concatenating loops during reciprocatory knitting with those with which yarn was not interknit during theformation of the heel and gore.

11. The method'of knitting a stocking comprising knitting a leg portion while selectively reversely concatenating loops to. produce a design structure, formingat the end of the formation of the leg portion at least one course containing plain knitting through at least the extent of the heel, forming a heel portion by reciprocatory knitting, during the knitting of the heel failing to interknit yarn with loops at the front of I the stocking formed during the last .course of knitting preceding formation of the heel, and, following the completion of said heel, starting formation of a foot portion by concatenating loops during the reciprocatory knitting with those with which yarn was not interknit during the formation of the heel.

12. A knitted stocking comprising integrally knitted leg, heel, and foot portions with a gore formed by reciprocatory knitting located between the heel and foot portions and extending above the heel portion, the foot portion being knit by reciprocatory knitting and the sole of said foot portion being knit of one yarn and the instep of another joined along side wales, and said gore extending upwardly to terminate at wales other than those forming the junctions between the sole and instep yarns.

' 13. A knitted stocking having a leg and front and rear split portions, the latter being formed by reciprocatory knitting, and design structure comprising selectively reversely concatenated loops in 'both the front and rear of the stocking, in each case being formed both by rotary knitting in the leg, and by reciprocatory knitting in the corresponding split portion of the stocking.

14. A knitted stocking having a leg and front and rear split portions, the latter being formed by reciprocatory knitting, and multiple wale ribs in both the front and rear of the stocking, in each case being formed both by rotary'knitting in the leg, and by reciprocatory knitting in the corresponding split portion of the stocking.

15. A knitted stocking having a portion formed by rotary knitting and an adjoining portion formed by reciprocatory knitting, said stocking having at least one rib which is continuous through both portions and also at least one other rib in both portions which is interrupted in the .having at least one rib which is continuous through both portions and also at least one rib in both portions which is continuous across the junction of said portions and which is interrupted in the portion formed by reciprocatory knitting.

formed by reciprocatory knitting, said stocking having at least one rib extending continuously from one portion into the other portion and interrupted in the portion formed by reciprocatory knitting.

19. A knitted stocking having a portion formed by rotary knitting and an adjoining portion formed by reciprocatory knitting, said stocking having at least one rib extending continuously from one portion into the other portion and interrupted by a suture in the portion formed reciprocatory knitting.

20. A knitted stocking having a portion formed by reciprocatory knitting and containing a suture, and at least one rib in said portion interrupted by the suture.

21. A circular knit stocking having a portion formed by reciprocatory knitting and having at least one rib interrupted between reciprocatory knit courses of said portion. i 22. A circular knit stocking having a portion formed by reciprocatory knitting and having in said portion in at least one wale thereof two loops reversely concatenated in adjacent courses knit in opposite directions. i

23. A circular knit stocking having a portion formed by reciprocatory knitting and having at least one multiple wale rib interrupted between reciproactory knit courses of said portion.

24. A circular knit stocking having a portion formed by reciprocatory knitting and having in said portion in each of a plurality of adjacent wales thereof two loops reversely concatenated in adjacent courses knit in opposite directions.

25. The method'oi' circularly knitting a stocking comprising knitting a pair of successive courses by reciprocatory knitting in opposite directions, and, in at least one wale, concatenating a loop in one direction with a preceding loop in aasmu.

the formation of the first course of said pair, and eoncatenating a loop in the opposite direction with the last formed loop in the formation oi the other course of said pair.

26. lhe method of circularly knitting a stocking comprising knitting a leg portion,-knitting a heel portion of the stocking by reciproactory knitting, knitting by reciproactory knitting a gore extending above the heel portion, and knitting by reciprocatory. knitting a split foot portion, the sole of said portion being knit of one yarn and the instep of another.

27. A knitted stocking comprising integrally knitted leg, heel and foot portions with a gore formed by reciprocatory knitting located between the heel and foot portions and extending above the heel portion, said leg being provided with design structure comprising selectively reversely concatenated loops, the foot portion being formed by reciprocatory knitting and the sole oLsaid foot portion being knit of one yarn and the instep of another, and said gore extending beyond theuwalerforming'the junctions between the'sole and instep yarns.

2a. a knitted stocking comprising integrally knitted leg, heel. and foot portions witha gore formed by reciprocatory knitting located between the heel and foot portions and extending above the heel portion, the foot portion being formed by reciprocatory knitting and the sole of said foot portion being knit of one yarn and the instep of another, and said gore extending beyond the wales forming the junctions between the sole and instep yarns.

29. A knitted stocking comprising integrally knitted leg, heel and foot portions with a gore formed by reciprocatory knitting located between the heel and foot portions and extending above the heel portion, the lower portion of said leg comprising a section knit by reciprocatory knitting the rear of which is knit of one yarn and the front of which is knit of another yarn, the foot portion being formed by reciprocatory knitting and the sole of said foot portion being knit of one yarn and the instep of another, and said gore extending beyond the wales forming the junctions between the sole and instep yarns.

HAROLD E. HOUSEMAN. 

